Soapbox

• Urban Union
• Chicago

A common theme with my menus is seafood. I really love to work with it because it is versatile and pairs well with the wines I love most — I am a white wine guy. So I work with my purveyors to make sure I have access to the freshest and most beautiful fish out there. And I jumped on these sardines from the Pacific north coast because I have loved sardines since living in France. In southern France, specifically Nice, and along the northern Italian coast, sardines are a staple at the outdoor markets. There, the preparations are always simple, since the fish is so flavorful. I paid homage to that by oiling them up and sprinkling on some sea salt before roasting them in the wood oven. The sardines are served with grilled Belgian endive and a nice, crisp, clean salad of shaved fennel, Meyer lemon juice, with tarragon and chervil. I would serve sardines all the time if I could and I hope that more people learn to love them as much as I do. They are also easy to make at home, either grilling them or roasting over a wood fire and then serving with a simple salad. It's an easy weeknight dinner.

Posted 02/22/12

• Custom House Tavern
• Chicago

I've always liked playing with surf 'n turfs (and surf 'n surfs). One, because I like the way the two play off of each other with the same accompaniment & two because sometimes you can lure people into trying something that they might not normally eat - like sweetbreads. This surf 'n turf came by way of thinking about a sea scallop wrapped in bacon - delicious, but overplayed and often executed poorly. Here the smokiness of the bacon comes from the butternut squash which has been slowly roasted and then smoked and pureed. The crispness of the bacon comes from veal sweetbreads that have been poached first and then fried with a cornmeal coat. A little bit of braised sweet and sour red cabbage and some pickled golden raisins provide a shot of sweetness and also some much needed acidity to the rich dish.

Posted 02/21/12

• Vera
• Chicago

Cour-Cheverny is home to only about 12 winemakers within the Loire Valley of France. While small, esoteric regions within well known regions of France are not extremely unique, the grape this wine is made with is ... Romorantin. While many vineyards with Romorantin are being ripped up to make room for the likes of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, Jocelyne and Michel Gendrier are championing this ancient varietal that delivers a unique and complex palate of minerality and citrus, complemented by an oily texture that must be tasted to be believed.

Posted 02/21/12

• Vera
• Chicago

Most chefs and sommeliers can tell you about their "A ha" moments in food and wine. When working with ingredients and wines that many times have a stereo type, helping guests have their own a ha moment with Sherry is rewarding sip after sip. Sherry is a perfect pairing with Spanish cuisine from the beginning of the meal to the end, from every savory to sweet bite. At Vera we're working (with the help of many passionate distributors and importers) to revolutionize the way guests think of Sherry ... in two words, it's a Sherry Revolution.

Posted 02/21/12